Update end Jan 2020

Fuel Pipes

Figured out what I needed to build the fuel line for the twin carb system. The metal pipework was fitted through the tunnel earlier in the build (see 28th Feb 2019 update). 

My drawing for the fuel system.

Fitted the petrol pump and filter and did a trial test of the fuel tank which required some adjustment to the aperture in the body.

Fuel lines and ancillaries

The top two pipes link the remote brake fluid reservoir to the master cylinder. Used a couple of clips I had left over from the oil cooler pipework to fix in place

Air intake for oil cooler

I sourced a vent from a kitchen supplier to allow for air flow into the oil cooler. Cheap fix!

Understanding and labelling the base wiring loom

I took some photos and labelled up the wiring, working from the back of the car. Hopefully this may help any future builder. I take no responsibility!!!

Rear End

First wires out of loom under the rear of the car.

GREEN & RED/BLK = reversing light switch
BROWN = Oil temp sender

Offside rear wheel arch

BLACK = Earth
YELLOW= Indicator
GREEN/BLUE Brake light
RED = Side lights
ORANGE = fog lights





Center rear for number plate light


BLACK= Earth to mounting bolt
ORANGE= Reversing light ( marked up as RED/BLACK in the manual)
RED=Outer lights (number plate)








Under Rear Wing Nearside

BLACK = Earth
GREY= Indicator
GREEN/BLUE Brake light
RED = Side lights
Note the fog light source will need to be linked from the Offside ORANGE







End of the loom for the engine

BLACK=Earth
RED=Alternator
WHITE/BROWN=Oil Pressure
YELLOW/BLACK= (Electric fuel pump, other end is at the front)
PINK=Coil live
WHITE=Coil Negative
BLUE=Alternator charge light


Working on the front part of the loom now.

Update Jan 21st 2020

Happy New Year!! I'm now back on the car after a nice long break over Christmas. There are a lot of smaller jobs to finish off before I get stuck into the electricals.

Body Fix (did this work in Dec 2019)

The body is fixed by a number of bolts down both sides of the car, as well as a number on the subframe. The side fixing points need to be drilled out from under the car and it was quite an awkward job, a four point lift would have made the job much easier.

Side mounts

Rear subframe

Rear cross frame

Oil Cooler & Oil filter

The pipework connecting  the oil cooler and oil filter to the engine was mocked up using cheap flexible pipe, using these as a template I had the final oil pipes manufactured from really nice and much more expensive material.




Once the tinware on the engine was in place, and it didn't originally fit, taking a few hours of filing and adjustment to get it all on, I did a dummy fit on the tray that sits below the engine. I needed to get this in place before I did a final fix in position of the oil cooler pipes and as expected it didn't fit and needed some "adjustment".

Final piece of tinware fitted and lower engine tray clamped in place prior to adjustment

Once "adjusted I did the final fit of the tray using a seal from a T25 Van rather than the seal supplied which being much smaller and more rigid didn't give the final seal that I wanted. All fits well,  but I have removed it to give me better access to the engine bay for fitting the fuel pipes and wiring.

Van seal on the left original seal on the right

The oil pipes and filter assemblies were fitted to the subframe by drilling out and fixing using Rivnut fitting,

Oil filter mounted onto rear subframe

Final Fix of the coil pack

I had to adjust the original bracket to lift the coil back away from the engine tray. Once modified I painted it black to match the coil pack.

Before adjustment

After adjustment

Wiring Loom

I have started to pull the wiring loom through the car.I going to have to add additional working on for a number of items, this list may grow, but for now its as below:

• Heated seats
• Music
• Immobiliser
• USB chargers
• Electric heater